How + Why I Make My Own Soap
The Deal with Soap
I started making soap because I wanted something clean.
Something I could understand.
Commercial soaps are complicated. Labels that promise purity, gentleness, sensitivity, and cleanliness often describe products that are highly engineered and heavily processed.
Most “soap” is not actually soap at all, but synthetic detergent formulated around manufactured cleansing agents.
I didn't get it.
I didn't want it.
So I started making my own.
(how hard could it be)
What We’re Doing
This is my personal process for creating the soap I use for bathing. I use it for my skin and hair.
Traditional soap behaves differently than many modern commercial cleansers and shampoos.
This composition cleans thoroughly while leaving behind a denser, more conditioned feel that I personally find works remarkably well for both skin and hair.
People transitioning from synthetic detergent-based cleansers may notice that real soap behaves somewhat differently in use. Traditional soap naturally has a higher pH than many modern shampoos and body washes, and the skin and hair can take time to adjust depending on water quality, hair type, and previous product use.
Real soap feels good in a way that is hard to find.
Not just philosophically — materially.
The oils are recognizable. The beeswax is real. The honey is real. There are no synthetic detergent bases, no engineered foaming systems, no mystery fragrance blends, and no long list of stabilizers and preservatives designed primarily for shelf life and mass production.
And because the soap is created through traditional saponification, naturally occurring glycerin remains within the finished bar. That glycerin contributes to the softer, more conditioned feel many people notice immediately in handmade soap.
Soap - or some/thing calling itself that - is something we place directly onto the body — repeatedly, routinely, often without thinking very much about it at all.
That matters.
Part of why I am sharing this process is because I believe people should understand what soap actually is, what it contains, and how differently it can feel when the materials themselves are simple, recognizable, and intentionally chosen.
Before You Begin
Before attempting, read and familiarize yourself with this entire process.
I have been using these same steps for over three years without incident. But there are a few things worth understanding before you begin.
Cold process soapmaking involves caustic materials, elevated temperatures, combustible oils, and active chemical reactions. The warnings throughout this guide are serious and should be treated that way.
But the purpose of these warnings is not to intimidate.
Cold process soapmaking rewards patience, preparation, and deliberate movement. If you work carefully, maintain awareness of the materials involved, and follow the steps exactly, the risks can be managed responsibly.
This is something worth doing.
Anyone choosing to follow or adapt this process does so at their own risk. I assume no responsibility or liability for injury, damage, misuse, or outcomes resulting from the use of this information.
What You Will Need
All equipment used in cold process soapmaking should be reserved exclusively for this purpose.
Once oils and sodium hydroxide are combined, you are working with raw soap batter — an active, caustic mixture that must complete the process of saponification before it becomes safe for regular skin contact.
Saponification does not end when the ingredients are combined.
The reaction continues within the soap as it hardens and cures, gradually transforming the mixture into a stable finished bar. This process can take weeks to complete fully.
Even small residues left on tools or surrounding surfaces can remain irritating until the reaction is complete.
Use non-reactive materials during this process. Stainless steel, heat-resistant silicone, and borosilicate glass are appropriate choices for handling oils, sodium hydroxide, and raw soap batter.
Do not use aluminum.
Sodium hydroxide reacts aggressively with it.
Safety
You will need:
- A stable work environment
- Silicone mat or other protective cover for work surface
- Safe access to a heat source
- Unobstructed access to running water
- Appropriate clothing
- Chemical-resistant gloves
- Protective safety glasses
- Fire extinguisher suitable for oil and kitchen fires
- Paper Towels
Work in a stable, well-ventilated area where air can circulate freely.
Protect the surrounding work surface from heat, oils, and spills before beginning.
Ensure that your heat source is stable, accessible, and free from surrounding clutter or obstruction.
Maintain unobstructed access to running water throughout the process. In the event of accidental contact with sodium hydroxide or raw soap batter, immediate flushing is important — particularly for the eyes and skin.
Dress for the work. Wear chemical-resistant gloves (nitrile is ideal), protective safety glasses, long sleeves, a lab coat or apron, and closed-toed shoes.
Keep a fire extinguisher nearby.
Never use water to extinguish an oil fire.
Paper towels or shop towels are useful for wiping down tools and surrounding surfaces before the soap has fully cured.
Measurement & Temperature
You will need:
- A digital scale capable of measuring to at least 0.1 gram
- Thermometer(s) for monitoring both oils and sodium hydroxide
Everything in this process is measured by weight in grams — never by cups, teaspoons, or volume estimates.
Accurate measurement is extremely important.
This is organic chemistry - not cooking.
A scale with a tare function is especially helpful, allowing vessels to be zeroed between ingredient additions without affecting measurement accuracy.
A non-contact infrared thermometer (the handheld “laser” style) works especially well because it allows each vessel to be measured without introducing cross-contamination.
Avoid moving a single probe thermometer between containers unless it is thoroughly cleaned and dried between readings.
Mixing & Blending
You will need:
- An immersion (stick) blender
- A silicone spatula
- Two (2) silicone, stainless steel, or glass stirring rods
The immersion blender should never return to food preparation once exposed to raw soap batter.
A narrower spatula provides better control in smaller vessels and allows batter to be recovered cleanly with minimal waste.
One stirring rod will be used for the oil phase and one for the sodium hydroxide solution.
Do not interchange them during the process.
Do not use aluminum.
Sodium hydroxide reacts aggressively with it.
Sodium Hydroxide - Alkali Preparation
You will need:
- 500 ml Borosilicate glass beaker
- Watch glass or weigh boat
The beaker contains the sodium hydroxide solution during preparation.
Borosilicate glass tolerates the rapid temperature changes produced when sodium hydroxide is dissolved into water, while the straight sides and wide mouth of a laboratory beaker provide greater stability and control during mixing.
The watch glass or weigh boat holds the measured sodium hydroxide before it is introduced into the water. It should be made from a non-reactive material such as borosilicate glass or stainless steel and large enough to hold at least 40 g of sodium hydroxide comfortably.
Blending Vessels
You will need:
- Stainless steel pitcher
- Small bowl
The stainless steel pitcher serves as both the heating and blending vessel. A minimum capacity of 32 oz is workable, though I prefer a larger 66 oz vessel for additional stability and clearance during blending.
Do not use aluminum.
The vessel should be tall enough for the immersion blender head to remain fully submerged while still leaving enough clearance above the batter to prevent splashing during blending.
The small bowl is used to prepare 10 grams of diluted honey solution before it is introduced into the soap batter later in the process.
Molding & Insulation
You will need:
- Soap mold
- Roll of parchment paper
- Towel or small blanket
I pour this composition into a single silicone mold with four cavities measuring 3¼ × 2 × 1 inches each.
The finished bars feel substantial in the hand — a proper, everyday block of soap.
The parchment paper covers the mold during insulation. Wax paper is inappropriate for this process.
The towel or blanket retains heat during early saponification, allowing the soap to cool more gradually and move more evenly through its initial transformation. It should be large enough to wrap your mold completely.
Testing
You will need:
- Phenolphthalein solution (100 mL)
Fresh soap should not be used directly on the skin before cure and testing.
Phenolphthalein solution is used to test soap before use.
Fresh soap may appear solid long before the process of saponification has fully completed. Until that reaction is finished, residual sodium hydroxide may still remain within the bar and can irritate or damage the skin.
You must allow saponification to complete fully before using the soap.
Testing helps confirm that the soap has completed its transformation and is safe for use.
Ingredients
The ingredient ratios must remain precise.
This is not general soapmaking guidance.
It is specific guidance for a specific soap.
Different oils contain different fatty acid structures and require different amounts of sodium hydroxide to fully saponify. Altering these ratios changes the chemistry of the soap itself — affecting hardness, lather, conditioning, trace behavior, cure, and even safety.
The materials matter.
This composition was developed using whole oils, real beeswax, and carefully chosen ingredients rather than inexpensive fillers or heavily altered substitutes. Pay attention to the quality of what you use. Read labels carefully. The character of the finished soap is shaped not only by the ingredients themselves, but by the quality and integrity of those ingredients.
- Olive Oil (120 g)
Olive oil forms the structural backbone of this soap. High in oleic acid, it contributes conditioning qualities and produces a mild, gentle bar. It slows trace, allowing greater control during blending, and helps create a smooth, stable batter. In cure, it yields a dense, long-lasting soap with a soft, creamy lather.
- Coconut Oil (75 g)
Coconut oil provides cleansing power and lather. Rich in lauric acid, it creates firm structure and strong bubbles. In balanced proportion, it strengthens the bar without making it overly stripping.
Use whole virgin coconut oil rather than fractionated coconut oil, which behaves differently and is not appropriate for this composition.
- Sunflower Oil (45 g)
High-linoleic sunflower oil contributes lightness and additional conditioning. Its linoleic acid content softens the overall character of the bar and tempers the cleansing strength of the coconut oil, helping keep the composition balanced.
This composition was developed using high-linoleic sunflower oil rather than high-oleic varieties.
- Sweet Almond Oil (30 g)
Sweet almond oil adds slip and emollience. It improves glide and enhances the finished feel on the skin. It helps to refine the texture and round out the conditioning profile.
- Beeswax (15 g)
Beeswax increases hardness and longevity. It raises the melting point of the oils, contributing to a firmer bar and longer shower life. It also lends subtle stability to the lather and supports the overall structural integrity of the soap.
A high-quality natural beeswax will also impart a subtle aroma to the finished bar — warm, faintly sweet, and unmistakably alive in a way heavily processed waxes often are not.
- Castor Oil (15 g)
Castor oil enhances lather stability and density. High in ricinoleic acid, it boosts bubble retention and gives the foam a creamy, persistent quality. Even in small amounts, it significantly improves overall performance.
- Sodium Hydroxide (40.3 g)
Sodium hydroxide is the alkali that drives saponification — the chemical reaction that converts oils into soap. Without it, there is no transformation.
- Distilled Water (114 g)
Water dissolves the sodium hydroxide and allows the reaction to occur. Distilled water is used to eliminate mineral variability, which can affect trace and final texture.
- Honey (10 g, diluted 60/40)
Honey contributes natural sugars that enhance lather and produce a subtle silkiness in the finished bar. It also deepens color. Used carefully, it enriches the soap without destabilizing the batter.
This composition produces approximately 480 grams of soap batter before cure.
The Process
When you are ready to begin, organize your workspace completely. Prepare your tools and keep the sodium hydroxide dry, sealed, and separate until you are ready to prepare the alkali solution. Collect the remaining ingredients.
Once the process begins, the work becomes continuous. Oils cool, waxes begin to firm, temperatures shift, and the soap batter changes quickly once the phases are combined.
Act deliberately.
Do not rush.
And do not step away from the process once it is underway.
Step One - Preparation
Before beginning, check your workspace.
- Is your workspace stable, ventilated, and uncluttered?
- Where is the fire extinguisher?
- Where is the running water?
- Are your tools clean, dry, and ready?
Then check yourself.
- Read and understand this entire process before beginning.
- Follow the instructions exactly.
- If a mistake is made, stop and begin again. Do not improvise.
Put on your gloves and safety glasses.
Step Two - Measuring & Preparing the Phases
In the stainless steel pitcher, measure:
- 120g Olive Oil
- 75g Coconut Oil
- 45g Sunflower Oil
- 30g Sweet Almond Oil
- 15g Pure Beeswax
- 15g Castor Oil
In the beaker, measure:
- 114 g distilled water
Prepare the honey solution:
Into the small bowl, measure:
- 6g honey
- 4g gram warm distilled water
Using one of the stirring rods, stir until fully combined.
Set the honey solution and stirring rod aside.
Step Three - Heating the Oil Phase
Heat the oils in the stainless steel pitcher to approximately 170°F (77°C)
- Use low to moderate heat and stir occasionally using the stirring rod used for the honey solution.
- Take regular temperature readings as the oils warm.
- The beeswax should melt fully and the entire mixture should become a single uniform liquid with no remaining solid material.
The oil phase is combustible.
Maintain controlled heat throughout the process and never leave the vessel unattended while heating.
Understand how to use your fire extinguisher before attempting.
Never use water on burning oils.
Water introduced into hot oil can spread flaming material violently and will escalate the fire immediately.
Once the oils have fully melted and reached temperature, set the pitcher aside.
Step Four - Preparing the Alkali Solution
Measure 40.3 g of sodium hydroxide onto the watch glass or weigh boat.
- The sodium hydroxide should appear as loose, dry crystals. Break apart any clumping before using.
- If any sodium hydroxide is spilled, stop immediately. Wearing gloves, carefully collect the material using dry paper towels before wiping the area thoroughly with water.
If sodium hydroxide comes into contact with skin or eyes, flush immediately with large amounts of water and contact a medical professional.
Sodium hydroxide is highly caustic and can continue damaging tissue until fully removed.
Slowly pour the sodium hydroxide into the beaker containing 114g of distilled water.
- Always pour sodium hydroxide into water
- Never pour water into sodium hydroxide
- Keep clear of the fumes during initial mixing
-
The solution and the beaker will become hot quickly
Using the second stirring rod, stir the solution until the sodium hydroxide has fully dissolved.
Step Five - Cooling & Equalizing the Phases
At this stage, you have two vessels:
- the heated oil phase
- the sodium hydroxide solution
Each vessel should have its own dedicated stirring tool.
Do not interchange them.
Both mixtures will still be hot. The oil phase presents a burn hazard, while the sodium hydroxide solution remains actively caustic.
Continue wearing protective equipment.
The goal is to bring both phases down gradually to a compatible working temperature — approximately 115°F (46°C).
Allow the vessels to cool slowly while monitoring temperatures frequently. Gentle stirring helps release heat more evenly.
You may also carefully rotate or tilt the vessels during stirring to increase surface exposure and encourage gradual cooling.
This stage may take some time.
The oils and alkali solution should each be approximately 115°F before moving on.
Step Six - Combining Phases & Reaching Trace
Slowly pour the sodium hydroxide solution into the pitcher containing the oils.
Using the immersion blender, begin pulsing gently on low speed.
At first the mixture will seem unstable — thin, separated, almost uncertain. But within a few pulses the transformation begins. The color shifts noticeably, the texture changes, and the oils and sodium hydroxide solution begin moving together as a single batter.
Once the mixture has lightly emulsified, add the diluted honey solution and continue blending in short pulses.
As saponification progresses, the batter gradually thickens into what soapmakers call trace — the moment where the mixture begins holding light structure instead of flowing like simple liquid.
For this composition, trace should remain soft and pourable. The batter should resemble a loose pudding or custard: noticeably thicker than before, no longer watery, but still moving comfortably through the vessel.
Avoid over-blending. Heavy trace can thicken quickly and become difficult to pour cleanly into the molds.
The batter at this stage remains actively caustic. Avoid direct skin contact.
Once trace is reached, remove the immersion blender and place it onto paper towels.
Step Seven - Molding & Insulation
Once trace has been reached, pour the soap batter carefully into the molds. Use the silicone spatula to distribute the batter evenly and recover as much material from the vessel as possible.
Avoid direct contact with the raw batter. At this stage, the soap is still actively caustic and can irritate or burn the skin.
Once filled, cover the molds with parchment paper and wrap them in a towel or blanket for insulation.
The batter will remain warm for some time. The goal is to retain that heat and allow the soap to cool slowly and evenly as saponification continues.
Gradual cooling contributes to a smoother, more uniform finish.
Step Eight - Cleanup
Once the soap has been poured into the molds, place the immersion blender, silicone spatula, and used paper towels in the stainless steel pitcher and set the vessel aside undisturbed.
Do not rinse raw soap batter directly into the sink.
Residual batter remaining on these tools is still actively caustic and should be allowed to complete saponification before cleaning. Leave the vessel and tools undisturbed for several days until the remaining material has hardened fully into soap.
Once the reaction has completed, the tools can be cleaned normally.
Paper towels or other disposable materials containing fresh soap batter should also be treated as caustic waste until saponification has completed. Allow them to dry undisturbed before disposal.
The borosilicate vessel used for the sodium hydroxide solution, along with the stirring rods and watch glass/ weigh boat, should be flushed thoroughly with fresh running water. Continue rinsing carefully to remove any remaining sodium hydroxide residue before normal washing.
Wipe down the thermometer and the surrounding workspace.
Once cleanup is complete, remove gloves and safety glasses and wash your hands thoroughly.
Step Nine - Cure & Testing
Allow the insulated molds to rest undisturbed for at least 24–48 hours while the soap continues firming and completing early saponification.
Put gloves on before handling freshly unmolded soap.
When unwrapped, the bars should feel solid and cohesive with a smooth matte surface. The color may deepen slightly as curing continues.
Once firm enough to handle safely, remove the bars from the molds and transfer them to a stable curing environment.
Insulating materials used during this stage should be cleaned thoroughly before returning to normal household use.
I place mine on a sheet of cardboard in a cool, dry, temperature-controlled space away from direct sunlight. Good airflow is helpful, but the bars should not be exposed to excessive humidity or dramatic temperature swings during cure.
At this stage, the soap is still changing.
Water continues evaporating from the bars while the internal structure gradually hardens and stabilizes.
A full cure generally takes approximately 30 days.
After roughly three weeks, the soap can be tested periodically using phenolphthalein solution. Place a small drop onto a freshly cut surface of soap.
If the solution remains clear, active sodium hydroxide is likely no longer present and the soap has completed saponification successfully.
If a strong pink coloration appears, free alkali is still present and the soap should continue curing before use.
Enjoy and good luck!
On Use + Practice
Care is shaped as much by repetition as by ingredients.
The way a balm is warmed between the hands. The moment attention returns to a part of the body usually passed over. The small gestures that slowly become familiar enough to feel like instinct.
Use + Practice explores the lived side of care — not routines imposed from outside, but the quiet habits, observations, and rituals that emerge through repeated contact with the body over time.
These notes exist to ask how touch, material, rhythm, and attention shape the way we move through ordinary life.
- Explore More from Use + Practice
- Visit the Cult of Bees Apothecary
- Browse Studio Notes & Material Studies
⟁ Use + Practice is written and photographed by Len Luterbach.
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